If your loft is crowded, the floor is damp, and a squab is losing weight with watery green droppings — think of coccidiosis first. A very common parasitic disease that rarely kills an adult bird on its own, but opens the door to everything else.

⚠️ This article is for awareness. Any treatment must be on a vet's recommendation and at the dose on the packaging — there are deliberately no doses here.

What is it?

A single-celled parasite (Eimeria) that lives in the pigeon's gut. Most adult pigeons carry it in small numbers and their immunity keeps it in check — the problem starts when the environment lets it multiply: damp, accumulated droppings, crowding, stress (transport, moult, breeding). It is in the encyclopedia under protozoal diseases, and its own page is here.

Signs

  • Watery green or mucous droppings, sometimes with blood in severe cases.
  • The bird huddled, feathers fluffed, little appetite.
  • Rapid weight loss especially in squabs (3–12 weeks) — the most at-risk group.
  • Increased thirst.
  • Performance drops: the racing bird slows down, the show bird's feathers go dull.

These signs are not unique to coccidiosis — salmonella and hexamita give a similar picture. That is why diagnosis matters.

Diagnosis

The only sure method: a droppings sample under the microscope at a vet or a lab — it counts the oocysts. A small number is normal; a large number with signs = treat. The test is cheap, saves you needless medicines, and shows whether another parasite is present too.

Treatment

  1. The anti-coccidial drug the vet specifies (the common groups: toltrazuril, amprolium or sulphonamides — each has its own duration and dose).
  2. The full course even if the signs disappear after two days — stopping early = a stronger comeback.
  3. Treat the whole loft, not only the sick bird — the rest carry the same parasite.
  4. After the course: vitamins and supplements (see supplements) because some drugs affect vitamin B absorption.
  5. Re-test the droppings after two weeks.

Prevention — the part that really makes the difference

Coccidiosis is a disease of environment before it is a disease of medicine:

  • A floor that is always dry. The oocysts need moisture to stay infective — dryness is the strongest disinfectant.
  • Clean droppings daily in the breeding season, and at least every two days outside it.
  • Water off the floor in closed drinkers — water fouled by droppings is the main route of infection.
  • No crowding: enough space for every pair (see setting up the loft).
  • Quarantine for any new bird for at least two weeks with a droppings test before it goes in.
  • In high humidity (the coast and the Delta in autumn) some breeders run a preventive course on the vet's advice before the breeding season — a veterinary decision, not a rule.

Squabs in particular

The most dangerous period is 3 to 12 weeks: immunity is still building and the squab eats off the floor. Weigh weekly — a squab whose weight has stalled or dropped before any other sign shows should be tested. Record everything under the bird's health status in the app so you build a history.

When to go to the vet immediately

  • Blood in the droppings.
  • More than one bird with the same signs within two days.
  • A squab that has lost more than 10% of its weight.

Coccidiosis is a "controllable" disease if the loft is clean and dry — and most people who suffer it every year have a floor problem, not a medicine problem.